Easter picnic

This being the first big holiday spent away from our families, we wanted to do something special for Easter.  There was no way I could prepare a ham for just the two of us, so we hit upon doing a picnic (or, as I like to call it after our Provence excursion last spring, "le pique-nique").  We figured that it would be a good way to explore the state a little more, but even if the weather turned out to be poor, we could just put our picnic blanket out in our living room!  Our menu consisted of sandwiches on homemade baguettes, avocado salad, orange-lime-vanilla fruit salad, and hot cross buns.

Sandwiches

For the sandwiches, we went with prosciutto, mozzarella, basil, and a little drizzle of balsamic, all piled onto homemade baguettes.

• We made the baguettes from the Joy of Cooking recipe; the stand mixer again proved its worth for the mixing and kneading.

Nice crumb!

• We had previously made the mozzarella, though for whatever reason our result was more like a cream cheese spread than regular mozzarella (we have made mozzarella successfully in the past, so it wasn't a first-timers thing).  So we just figured that the cheese could be spread onto the bread before putting all the fillings in.
• The prosciutto came from Venda Ravioli in Providence.  This was our first time going there and it was, I'll admit, a little overwhelming.  It was like a whole emporium for Italian foods; there were even multiple options for prosciutto at the meat counter!  Apparently the "San Daniele" prosciutto was the one to get, but as the guy in front of us requested the San Daniele, we had to 'settle' for prosciutto di Parma so as not to hold up the line.  There were already a LOT of people in line behind us as it was the Saturday before Easter at an Italian market....but I was just really excited to buy prosciutto in the same manner than one might buy some deli turkey for the week's lunches.
• The balsamic also came from Venda Ravioli.  The ingredients list was just one ingredient: 100% cooked must.  So I figured it was the real thing, or at least as close as we can get to the real thing without going bankrupt.  It's sweeter and less overtly acidic than the regular balsamic vinegars.  Well worth it to try!

  

  This is but one reason why I like going to Italian markets.

I made my sandwich with prosciutto, balsamic (sprinkled onto the cut surfaces of the bread), mozzarella, and basil; Dom added sliced red peppers to his.  Both were quite tasty!

That's mine on the left.  Amazingly tasty.

Avocado salad

Just a simple mixed salad of avocados, corn, grape tomatoes, snap peas, and green onions tossed with a balsamic vinaigrette.  We used the regular balsamic vinegar, not the stuff we'd picked up at the Italian market yesterday.  A good mix of colours, textures, and flavours.

Spot all five ingredients.

Orange-lime-vanilla fruit salad

This recipe came from The Pioneer Woman Cooks: A Year of Holidays as "orange vanilla fruit salad", though I scaled it down considerably since I didn't want 12 servings.  We used a half pint each of blackberries and blueberries, plus some strawberries and Muscat grapes (they were the same price as the green grapes).  The recipe is pretty flexible as to what fruits to use.

The "orange vanilla" part of the original recipe title comes from the syrup poured over the fruit.  The original recipe called for equal parts sugar and water plus the zest and juice of an orange.  I used less than a quarter cup of sugar, a bit of vanilla, a half cup of water, the juice and zest of one Cara cara navel orange, and the juice and zest of a lime.  I figured that since all the fruits I'd chosen were pretty sweet, the syrup could use some tartness from the lime juice.  There was something between a third and a half cup of syrup after reduction.

Syrup, after reduction.

The result was a very tasty fruit salad; if anything, I would have left the vanilla out.  In fact, I debated for several minutes whether I should even include the vanilla in the first place as the lime-orange syrup already smelled pretty good.  But in the end there were no complaints about the fruit salad!

I usually like fruit salad, but this was really tasty with the zesty syrup.

Hot cross buns

I'll admit it: my only knowledge of hot cross buns before this year came from the first named melody in the music books used by novice instrumentalists, and the incomplete explanation I got about what hot cross buns represent.  I didn't realize until this year that they are an Easter tradition!  And they didn't seem too difficult to make.

I used the Joy of Cooking recipe with inspirations from the version in Nick Malgieri's Bread.  So to the Joy recipe's cinnamon and nutmeg I added lemon zest, cloves, cardamom, and a pinch of ginger, and then instead of currants I threw in dried cherries (being a Michigan native and all).  In place of 1 egg I used 2 egg yolks.  So it was not exactly a traditional hot cross bun, but these were tasty nonetheless.

The icing was confectioner's sugar, water, and a little vanilla.  I had just enough for all 18!

The picnic site

We scoured a very helpful website listing public parks in the state to figure out where to go.  We finally settled on going to the park surrounding Conanicut Battery in Jamestown, which promised to have a nice view of the West Passage of Narragansett Bay.  We ended up having our picnic amid the earthwork fortifications of a Revolutionary War-era gun battery.  Neat!

Upper 50s, sunny, a light breeze, and too early in the season for bugs: could there be any better conditions for a picnic?  I don't think so.

Happy Easter!

Recipes used:

Baguettes: Joy of Cooking (2006), p. 601

Fruit salad: The Pioneer Woman Cooks: A Year of Holidays (2013), p. 108-109

Hot cross buns: Joy of Cooking (2006), p. 610; with inspiration from Nick Malgieri's Bread (2012), p. 208-209

Writeup background noise: first it was NBCSports's replay of the Chinese Grand Prix, because while the Red Wings were losing, I commandeered the TV; and now it's the soundtrack from Super Mario Galaxy. 

Ragù with rigatoni v2.0

In our last post I had talked about the ragù with rigatoni I'd made with beef instead of lamb.  I recently tried making it again with some of our modifications.  The results were a mixed bag of success: not quite as tasty, but some of the new techniques can be incorporated into the next iteration.

• We stuck with beef, mostly because in this area, it's easier to buy beef than lamb.
• I wanted to try making this with an Italian wine rather than a French wine.  Thanks to Wines and More Rhode Island (right next to Whole Foods!), we got a wine from the Campania region.  I actually ended up liking the French wine better, both on its own and in the dish (but see the caveat in the next point), though I do believe that we need a bigger sample size on this one.  The Italian red we used was a little more dry than the Rhône wine we'd gotten the first time.
• Instead of using the 1 cup of canned whole tomatoes + 1 cup of the juices, I used a 14 oz. can of diced tomatoes.  This was definitely not a solution.  The whole tomatoes are not canned in additional tomato juice; it's just whatever juices come from the tomatoes themselves.  Diced tomatoes, I have learned, are canned with additional juice added, so the ragù was much more acidic than version 1.0.  This made the dish overly tomato-y and combined with the wine we used, it didn't seem quite as complex of a flavour as the first ragù we made.  Most of the spices were drowned out.
• The recipe called for a cup and a half of chicken stock, which I had felt was too much, so for this iteration I reduced it to 1 cup.  Unfortunately, my ill-fated decision to use the diced tomatoes meant that there was still way too much liquid in the pot; I still had to boil the sauce uncovered for about 45 minutes to get it to reduce a bit.
• I greatly reduced the cumin and threw in a pinch of nutmeg along with a bay leaf, but as noted previously, the final dish was mostly a tomato sauce with some beef in it and practically no spices.  Next time I'll keep the proportions I used for this attempt.

So, I suppose this is what learning to cook is all about, right?  Trial and error, modifying the recipe a bit, then refining it some more?  That's what I keep telling myself, at least.

The fantastic thing about cooking with wine?  You can drink while cooking.

The Dinnertime Survival Cookbook (2013), p. 148-149

Writeup background noise: Mike and Mike simulcast on ESPN2.

Lamb ragù with rigatoni (var. beef)

In an effort to diversify our recipe repertoire, I purchased The Dinnertime Survival Cookbook (after having tested some recipes from the library's copy, of course).  We've had success with a few of its recipes, but then I started to notice that we were only making those few dishes.  So we decided to make something different: lamb ragù with rigatoni.

We quickly discovered that the Foxborough Trader Joe's (right next to Gillette Stadium!!) doesn't carry ground lamb, so we bought beef instead, and rather hilariously, we didn't even buy ground beef (personal preference).  I realize this may have changed the final product rather a lot.*  But they had everything else we needed, including a bottle of inexpensive but quality red wine.  Massachusetts grocery stores >> Rhode Island grocery stores.

This turned out to be a very tasty red; it was a lot smoother than many other reds (which I prefer).  Trader Joe's FTW!

From a cursory read-through of the recipe, I knew that this one would take rather a while: definitely a weekend meal despite the cookbook author claiming that it could be done on a weeknight ("It cooks in 45 minutes!" for me means "You will be chopping things for 30 minutes, THEN cooking for 45 minutes!").  But even so, we started chopping things around 5:30 and didn't eat until just past 7.  Didn't budget the time well on that one.

Once we got the stove going, the sauce looked great.  Beef, onions, celery, carrots: deglazed with some red wine, this was starting to look more like a French beef stew than an Italian pasta sauce (though I have since learned that this is the traditional method for preparing a ragù alla bolognese).

I'd added the wine a few minutes prior to taking the photo; it was already tasty at this point.

Then the recipe told us to add 1 cup of canned whole tomatoes + 1/2 cup of the juices, then a cup and a half of chicken stock, followed by a covered simmer for 45 minutes.  This made the sauce look more like a soup, so I left the pot uncovered for the 45 minutes.  This thickened the sauce, but I would still reduce the amount of chicken stock to 1 cup at most and simmer with the lid on.

The ragù just after adding the tomatoes, juice, and broth.  Soup, or sauce for pasta?

The ragù after trying to get it to reduce.

The finished product was incredibly tasty even though we hadn't followed the original recipe to the letter.  It was not overly tomato-y; there were enough other flavors like rosemary, bay leaf, thyme, and cumin that no single flavour dominated the dish, and the carrots added just a bit of sweetness.  If anything, I would swap out the cumin (the cookbook author loves that cumin) for a pinch of nutmeg instead, but that is just my personal preference.

This is definitely something we would make again, but only on weekends unless I can improve my knife skills** enough to make this on a weeknight.  I'd like to see what it would taste like with the original main ingredient, but this beef variation was excellent.

A recipe to keep!  We made this with rigatoni bought from Trader Joe's.  It's somehow thicker than the Barilla or Mueller's rigatoni and stood up well to the chunky sauce.

The Dinnertime Survival Cookbook (2013), p. 148-149

*This is, in fact, reminiscent of a recent experience at a local Szechwan restaurant.  Our party wanted to order "Chinese broccoli with chicken".  Our waiter kindly let us know, though, that the restaurant didn't have any Chinese broccoli that evening; moreover, because of a printing error, it wasn't broccoli in the dish, it was cauliflower; and then it wasn't chicken, but pork.  Cauliflower with pork?  Almost, but not quite, entirely unlike Chinese broccoli with chicken!

**I have almost, almost resisted the urge to use the word "sharpen" in relation to improving my knife skills.

Cardamom rice pudding

We recently purchased a jar of ground cardamom after seeing a suspiciously low price at Whole Foods, of all places (maybe it's not real cardamom??).  For the first time using it, I wanted to make something that would showcase the spice as opposed to making something like a curry where it would be combined with several other spices.  I finally settled on a rice pudding recipe from Joy of Cooking and used a 1/2 teaspoon of cardamom where the same quantity of vanilla had been called for.

There are two basic rice pudding recipes in the cookbook; there's the baked rice pudding, and then there's the stovetop version.  Here's how we decided to go stovetop:

"Should we do stovetop or baked rice pudding?"
"Hmm....."
"The stovetop has fewer ingredients, but--"
"Stovetop."

Fewer ingredients made it easier to get everything together, but at the same time it meant a less-flavorful finished product.  The only flavorings in the pudding were milk and white sugar, so it was similar to a fior di latte gelato.  The recipe said to add the vanilla (cardamom, in our case) after removing the pudding from the heat, but I wonder if adding the cardamom with the milk would have done more for the overall flavor, almost like steeping chai in milk instead of water.  Substituting brown sugar for white could also have added a little depth of flavor, as well as adding just a pinch of cinnamon.  I realize that I'd specifically wanted a dish where the cardamom would be the main flavoring, but a little more flavor would not have hurt.

Too much milk.

The other issue was the amount of liquid in the recipe.  I had to cook 3/4 c. of rice in 1 1/2 cups of water, which is much more than I would usually use for rice.  Once the rice was cooked, I had to then add 4 cups of milk.  The photo above was taken more than a half hour after adding the milk, whereas the recipe claimed that the pudding should only need about 30 minutes of cooking.  It probably took about 45 minutes for the pudding to cook down into, well, a pudding.  Good thing I didn't have to cook that night.*

Yum.

For a little extra flavour, we added sliced honeycrisp apples and a dusting of cardamom to the serving bowls, but a drizzle of honey or a sprinkling of cinnamon would also be tasty.




*We actually went out for dinner that evening to Masala Pakistani and Indian Cuisine in North Providence, RI.  Going out for dinner is a big, big deal for us since we strongly prefer cooking our own stuff.

Joy of Cooking (2006), p. 820
Writeup background noise: The Herd with Colin Cowherd on ESPN Radio.  All ESPN is talking about these days is some football game being played on Sunday, but as far as I'm concerned, football season ended two weeks ago.

Croissants

I didn't particularly like croissants as a kid, but once I started, there was no stopping it: I was on a mission to find the best croissants in Ann Arbor.  Along the way, I discovered what gives croissants their unique structure; I also realized that perhaps there should be some kind of limit to how frequently I buy these.  Like any food that I take a shine to, I checked our handy Joy of Cooking to see if I could possibly make these myself; even knowing that croissants can be finicky, I was still a little put off by the fact that the recipe spanned 2.5 columns (their recipes are rarely more than one column).  I also didn't feel up to trying to combine butter with flour while also trying to keep the butter's temperature low.

I requested the Bouchon Bakery cookbook from the library to check out their macaron recipe, but it turns out that their croissant recipe doesn't require the step of combining butter with flour, so I thought that this was as good a time as any to try making croissants.

The entire process took about 19 hours; I started during the 4th quarter of a Monday Night Football game, and the croissants were ready for dinner on Tuesday.  Good thing I wasn't working when I made these.

16 December, about 11 PM: Poolish is now fermenting.  If ever there was a good time to use the lesser-quality Target brand plastic wrap instead of the superior Saran Wrap, this was it, since the recipe called for the poolish to be covered loosely at this point.

17 December, about 10.45 AM: The poolish looks like the picture in the book!

Dough, post-mixing: the dough-making process would have been a little easier with instant yeast (which is what the recipe called for) instead of active dry; I wouldn't have had so much issue with regulating the amount of liquid in the dough had I just gone out and bought the instant yeast.

About 11.45 AM: After some minutes of rolling and shaping, the dough is ready to rest for an hour.

This is a pretty good sign, so far.  It's ready to be rolled out!

This is why I feel the need to hit the gym every day.

This, I believe, was probably "Turn 1"; the recipe called for three such turns (roll/flatten the packet of dough, then fold like a business letter).  This entire process of turns (apparently called "laminating") took about an hour and 40 minutes total, since you pop the dough packet into the freezer in between turns to keep its temperature down.

About 2.50 PM: They look like crescent rolls, but better.  Now to proof for two hours!

5 PM: Ready for the oven!  They have a lot of potential here.  I was able to make two baking sheets' worth of croissants, with 11 or 12 on each one.

6 PM: A batch fresh out of the oven.  Unfortunately, they didn't puff as much as they should have.

Sad crumb, but the end result was something like a flaky brioche; the outer layers were flaky, but the rest of the crumb had a more uniform but very rich texture.

Of course, I didn't expect croissants worthy of a boulangerie on my first attempt, but it was still a bit of a bummer as I'd put so much time into these.  I have two hypotheses as to why these didn't turn out.  At first, I suspected that something had gone wrong in the laminating stages, like I'd let the butter get too warm, and thus it had become incorporated into the dough instead of remaining separate to give the finished croissant its flaky layers.

But then in chatting with my mom, we thought that perhaps the oven had not been hot enough.  The outer layers of the croissants were all flaky and certainly made a bit of a mess when biting into them, so I had done something correctly; then I remembered that I had seen distinct layers of dough and butter when I had cut the triangles for each croissant, so maybe it wasn't entirely my fault.  The recipe noted different temperatures for convection ovens versus conventional ovens, and I had made sure to use the temperature for the 'regular' oven.  In thinking about it though, when making macarons, I have had to experiment with higher and higher temperatures to see what works for my oven; my macaron book lists a temperature for convection ovens, and only notes that people with regular ovens may have to set the temperature maybe 10 degrees higher (which I have had to exceed).  So maybe oven temperature was the culprit?  Perhaps at a higher temperature, the butter on the insides of the croissants won't have as much of a chance to melt directly into the dough?

It's worth trying again, but it was a lot of time and effort, and I still have a bunch of frozen brioche-croissants in my freezer, since I didn't even think these were nice enough to give to friends.  But I suppose if I'm to make my favored type of almond croissant--dough rolled with almond filling, not day-old croissant split in half and filled with pastry cream--I should just do it myself as those tend to be more difficult to find than the pastry cream version.

And I still haven't found any croissants as tasty as those from Zingerman's, though the boulangerie at the corner of Rue Grimaldi and Rue Princesse Caroline in Monaco was a close second if only for its location.


Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel, Bouchon Bakery (2012), p.236-243 (!)
Writeup background noise: New Orleans Saints vs. Philadelphia Eagles.  Saints win?!